Read Amy Butler's In Stitches: More Than 25 Simple and Stylish Sewing Projects Online
Authors: Amy Butler
Amy Butler's In Stitches: More Than 25 Simple and Stylish Sewing Projects (6 page)
FIGURE 3
FIGURE 5
FIGURE 6
FIGURE 7
Step 4. Make the fur lining.
Fold the fur in half lengthwise with
Right
sides together, matching up the side raw edges. Starting at the top raw edge of the folded fur lining, stitch a
1
/
2
″ seam down the length of the panel, backstitching at each end. Turn the fur lining
Right
side out.
Step 5. Attach the exterior main panel to the fur lining.
With the exterior tunnel
Wrong
side facing out and the fur lining
Right
side facing out, slip the exterior tunnel over the fur lining, making sure to match up the side seams. Pin the panels together at the end of the exterior tunnel with the drawstring opening that you made in step 2. Attach this end of the tunnel by stitching a
1
/
2
″ seam completely around the matched raw edges.
(
FIGURE 5
)
Step 6. Make the drawstring casing on the first end of the tunnel.
Turn the tunnel
Right
side out so that the exterior side faces out. Topstitch a
1
/
4
″ seam around the finished edges on the first end of your tunnel, backstitching at each end. Then, measure 1
1
/
2
″ down from the topstitching and mark a guideline all the way around this end of the tunnel. Stitch another seam, following the 1
1
/
2
″ guideline, completely around the first end of the tunnel. This will make a casing for your drawstring.
(
FIGURE 6
)
Step 7. Finish the unstitched end of the tunnel.
First, turn the tunnel around so the unstitched end is facing you. Then, fold under the raw edges of the exterior tunnel
1
/
2
″ in toward the
Wrong
side and press. Fold under the raw edges of the fur lining
1
/
2
″ in toward the
Wrong
side and pin these folded edges in place.
Then, match up the folded edges of the exterior tunnel and the fur lining, lining up the seams, and pin the folded edges together. Topstitch completely around the pinned edge with a
1
/
4
″ seam. Measure 1
1
/
2
″ down from the topstitching and make another seam completely around this end of the tunnel. This will make both ends of the tunnel look the same.
(
FIGURE 7
)
Step 8. Make the drawstring.
*
First, fold the drawstring in half lengthwise, with the
Wrong
sides together, matching up the long side raw edges, and press a center crease. Open the drawstring, keeping the
Wrong
side facing up. Fold each of the long side raw edges in to meet the center crease and press. Then, fold each short end of the drawstring
1
/
2
″ in and press. Finally, refold the entire drawstring in half along the original center crease to enclose the raw edges and press. Topstitch completely around the drawstring with a
1
/
8
″ seam, backstitching at each end.
*
See page 170
for more details on how to make a drawstring.
Step 9. Feed the drawstring through the casing.
First, attach a large safety pin to one end of the drawstring and close the pin. With the exterior of the tunnel facing out, insert the closed pin into the opening of the casing. Push the drawstring completely around the casing, using the safety pin to guide it through. Pull the safety pin end of the drawstring out of the same opening and then remove the safety pin. To finish your tunnel, even up the ends of the drawstring, and tie a knot at each end.
BIG DOT PILLOW
FINISHED SIZE: 28″ WIDE × 28″ LONG
Here are three fabulous pillows with multiple looks for your ever-changing moods. The Big Dot Pillow provides a modern backdrop for your favorite scraps and cherished tidbits. The feminine
ROUND RUFFLE PILLOW
(page 34)
has an elegant, sculptural feel. And the
POM-POM PILLOW
(page 37)
is simple, quirky, and fun.
BIG DOT PILLOW, ROUND RUFFLE PILLOW, AND POM-POM PILLOW
FABRICS
• 1
3
/
4
yards (44″-wide) mid- to heavyweight solid cotton fabric for the pillow panels
•
1
/
8
yard each of 14 (44″-wide) coordinating fabrics for the circle appliqués
• 1 yard Wonder Under (double-sided fusible webbing)
• 28″ square pillow form (or, to make your own pillow form, 1 yard [60″-wide] cotton muslin and 5 large bags of polyester fiberfill)
OTHER SUPPLIES
• Coordinating thread
• Yardstick
• Chalk pencil or fabric marker
• Scissors
• Straight pins
• Turning tool (such as a closed pair of scissors)
NOTES
• All seams are
1
/
2
″ unless otherwise stated. (The
1
/
2
″ seam allowance is included in all cutting measurements.)
• Preshrink your fabric by washing, drying, and pressing it before starting your project.
Step 1. Cut out all pieces from the fabric.
First, simply measure and mark the dimensions below directly onto the
Wrong
side of the fabric, using a yardstick and a chalk pencil. Then, using your scissors, cut out each panel following the marked lines.
FROM THE FABRIC FOR THE PILLOW PANELS
• Cut 2 panels: 29″ wide × 29″ long
FROM THE WONDER UNDER
• Cut 9 circles: Use the pattern piece provided in the pocket at the front of this book.
FROM THE 14 FABRICS
•
For the patchwork fabric:
Cut 2 strips of fabric from each of the 14 coordinating fabrics at different widths. For example, from the first fabric, cut a first strip that is 2
1
/
4
″ wide by 45″ long and a second that is 1
1
/
2
″ wide by 45″ long. Vary the widths of the strips (you’ll use them to make a fun pattern for the patchwork fabric in step 3). Cut out widths anywhere from 1
1
/
4
″ to 2
3
/
4
″ wide by 45″ long.
•
For the circles:
First, make the patchwork fabric in step 3; then cut out 9 circles as indicated in step 4, using the circle pattern piece provided in the pocket at the front of this book.
FROM THE OPTIONAL MUSLIN FOR THE PILLOW FORM
• Cut 2 pillow panels: 29″ wide × 29″ long
Step 2. Make the muslin pillow form (optional).
a.
First, take the 2 muslin pillow panels and place them
Right
sides together. Stitch a
1
/
2
″ seam around the panels, leaving a 10″ opening in the center of one side. Then, trim the 4 corners in the seam allowance, making sure not to clip your stitching.
b.
Turn the muslin pillow form
Right
side out and press. Fill the pillow form with polyester fiberfill to your desired firmness. Fold under the
1
/
2
″ seam allowance at the opening and pin the opening closed. Then, slip stitch the opening closed by hand or machine stitch close to the folded edge.
Step 3. Make the patchwork fabric.
First, take the strips that you cut out in step 1 for the patchwork fabric and lay them out in a pleasing horizontal pattern. Then, take the top 2 strips of fabric from your fabric pattern and place them with
Right
sides together. Stitch a
1
/
4
″ seam across the matched raw edges and press the seam allowance toward one side. Then, take the next strip of fabric in the fabric pattern and place it onto the other raw edge of the second strip of fabric, with
Right
sides together. Again, stitch a
1
/
4
″ seam across the matched raw edges and press the seam allowance the same way. Repeat this process until you have attached all of the strips of fabric from your fabric pattern.
Step 4. Cut out the circles from the patchwork fabric.
Using the pattern piece provided, cut out 9 circles from the patchwork fabric you made in step 3. Cut the circles from different areas of the patchwork fabric to achieve a varied look.
Step 5. Press the Wonder Under to the back of each circle.
Take the 9 circles of the Wonder Under and press one onto the back of each of the 9 patchwork circles, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 6. Mark the placements for the circles on the front pillow panel.