Amy Butler's Style Stitches: 12 Easy Ways to 26 Wonderful Bags (9 page)

• Cut 2 bands on the fold*

• Cut 2 handles on the fold

• Cut 2 main panels on the fold

• Cut 2 bands on the fold

• Cut 2 pockets panels on the fold

c. Use the panels you have cut as full-size pattern pieces to cut out the interfacing.

• Cut 2 main panels

• Cut 4 bands

• Cut 1 pocket panel

• Cut 1 handle

a. Place the
Wrong
side of one handle onto the fusible side of the Interfacing. Using a damp pressing cloth*, fuse the interfacing in place. Turn the piece over and press it again, making sure there are no puckers.

b. Repeat step 3a to fuse the interfacing pieces to one pocket panel and all four bands. The main panel interfacings will be attached in steps 4c and 4h.

a. Place the exterior fabric for the pleated panel on the ironing board,
Right
side up. Measure 1″ (2.5 cm) up from one short edge and make a parallel mark on each long side edge. These marks will be used as a guide to form the first pleat only. Pinch ½″ (1.3 cm) of the fabric above the 1″ (2.5 cm) marks on each side edge and fold it toward the marks. Press the pleat that forms on the
Right
side of the fabric flat, being careful to keep the pleat even across the width of the fabric. Continue to pinch the fabric above the previous pleat and fold back toward the pleat you just pressed. Vary the pleat widths between ⅜″ (1 cm) and ⅝″ (1.6 cm). Press each pleat as it is formed, creating a nice crisp edge.

Figure 1

b. Gently turn the pleated fabric
Wrong
side up, placing the pleats vertically. Adjust the pleats If necessary.

c. Center the fusible side of one of the main panel Interfacing pieces onto the
Wrong
side of the pleated fabric. Make sure the pleats are straight and even. Using a damp pressing cloth, fuse the Interfacing in place.

d. Machine baste* a ¼″ (0.6 cm) seam completely around the outside edges on the Interfaced side of the panel.

e. Using a ruler and fabric marker, measure down from the top at each side edge of the Interfacing main panel and mark the following measurements for the size clutch you are making.

For small clutch: 1½″ (3.8 cm) and then 5″ (2.7 cm)

For medium clutch: 2″ (5.1 cm) and then 5½″ (14 cm)

For large clutch: 2½″ (6.4 cm) and then 6″ (15.2 cm)

Connect the first two marks by drawing a horizontal line across the main panel. Then connect the second set of marks with a horizontal line.

f. Stitch following the marked lines and backstitch* at each end. Be careful to keep the pleats flat as you sew.

g. With your scissors, cut away the excess pleated fabric, using the outside edges of the Interfacing main panel as a cutting guide.

h. Repeat steps 4a through 4g to make the second main panel.

a. Place the handles
Right
sides together, matching the long side edges, and pin them in place. Stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam along each pinned edge. Backstitch at each end.

b. Clip* in the seam allowance* along the curve at the center of the handle, being careful not to clip your stitching. Turn the handle
Right
side out through one open end and press it flat. Then, edge stitch* along the finished edges.

c. Find the center of one main panel by folding it in half and marking the top edge of the fold with a straight pin. Then, open the main panel.

d. Fold the handle in half, matching the short raw ends, and pin. Center the matched raw ends at the center top edge on the
Right
side of one of the main panels, and pin. Machine baste a ¼″ (0.6 cm) seam across the edges to hold the handle in place.

Please set the handle/main panels aside for now.

Figure 2

a. Place the pocket panels
Right
sides together, matching all edges. Pin along the top edge. Stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam across the pinned edge. Backstitch at each end.

b. Turn the pocket panels
Right
side out and press the seam at the top edge. Then, topstitch* ¼″ (0.6 cm) from the finished edge. Backstitch at each end.

c. Match the side and bottom edges and pin. Machine baste a ¼″ (0.6 cm) seam to hold the pinned edges together.

d. Place the pocket on one of the lining main panels, matching the bottom and side edges, and pin. Machine baste a ¼″ (0.6 cm) seam to hold the pocket in place.

e. Fold the lining and pocket panels in half, matching the side edges, and gently press a center crease on the fold. Stitch up along the crease to divide the pocket into two sections. Backstitch at each end.

a. Place the bottom edge of one exterior band and the top edge of one pleated main panel
Right
sides together, matching the edges, and pin in place. Stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam across the pinned edge. Backstitch at each end.

b. Press the seam allowance toward the band. Then, topstitch ¼″ (0.6 cm) from the seam on the
Right
side of the band.

c. Repeat steps 7a and 7b to attach the other exterior band to the second exterior main panel and both lining bands to the lining main panels.

a. Place the zipper face down onto the
Right
side of the first exterior panel with the zipper head ½″ (1.3 cm) from one side raw edge of the band. Place the long edge of the zipper tape ¼″ (0.6 cm) from the top edge of the band and pin it in place.

Figure 3

b. Using the zipper foot for your machine, stitch ⅛″ (0.3 cm) from the zipper coils, starting and stopping ½″ (1.3 cm) from each side edge. Backstitch at each end.

c. Place the first lining panel
Right
sides together with the exterior panel, sandwiching the zipper in between. Pin them in place along the top edge.

d. With the
interfaced
side of the exterior panel facing up, sew over the stitching that attached the zipper, starting and stopping ½″ (1.3 cm) from each side edge of the band. Backstitch at each end.

Figure 4

e. Flip the lining over the zipper, matching the
Wrong
sides of the lining and the exterior panels. Pin them together. Press the panels away from the zipper, pressing under the ½″ (1.3 cm) unstitched fabric at each end.

Figure 5

f. On the
Right
side of the exterior, starting and stopping ½″ (1.3 cm) from each side edge, topstitch ¼″ (0.6 cm) from the seam that attached the zipper to the exterior band. Backstitch at each end.

g. Repeat steps 8a through 8f to attach the other exterior and lining panels to the other side of the zipper. Be careful not to twist the zipper.

h. With the exterior panels facing up, lay the panels with the zipper attached on a flat surface, spreading each set of exterior and lining panels away from the zipper. Measure ½″ (1.3 cm) in from the side edge of the panels along the bottom of the zipper and make a mark on the zipper coils. Bar tack* over the coils to make a new zipper stop.

i. Trim the excess zipper, leaving a 1″ (2.5 cm) tail beyond the new zipper stop.

j. Open the zipper and remove the pins from the panels.

a. Separate the exterior panels from the lining panels. To keep the lining out of your way while you stitch the exterior panels, place the lining panels
Right
sides together, matching the raw edges, and pin them in place. Then, fold the unstitched edges at the top of the lining bands in toward the center of the panel and pin them in place. (See
Figure 6
.)

b. Place the exterior panels
Right
sides together, matching the seams attaching the bands, the side and bottom edges, and the unstitched top edges. Pin them together. Starting and stopping at the top folded edge, stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam down both sides and across the bottom edges. Backstitch at each end.

c. Trim* all four corners in the seam allowances, being careful not to clip your stitching. Press the seam allowances open.