After a short flight from Santiago to
Ushuaia, Argentina’s southernmost city, they were transported by bus to the
harbour where the
Explorer
was
docked, ready for boarding. Georgina stared in disbelieve at the ship on which
she was going to spend the next ten days. Now she understood. No wonder Taj had
laughed at her on the plane. The
Explorer
couldn’t be less luxurious. In fact it looked like a large fishing trawler and
almost as rickety.
“Don’t worry, she’s as solid as they
come,” Don reassured her as they climbed on board. The luggage took some time
to load as there was photographic equipment, lab equipment, laptops and all
sorts of other scientific paraphernalia that the team of biologists, zoologists
and geologists required for their expedition.
Taj walked passed carrying a tripod and
a couple of
DryZone
camera bags. “You’ll find the spa
near the heated pool on the lido deck,” he grinned, as he disappeared up the
metal steps that had been lowered on the side of the ship for the passengers to
board. They reminded Georgina of a fire escape down the side of a
building.
“Very funny,” she called after him.
Sighing she picked up her Louis Vuitton
suitcase and matching handbag, slung her laptop bag over her shoulder and
heaved the lot up the stairs. It took her about ten minutes, pausing every few
steps in order to catch her breath, to get to the top and nobody stopped to
help. Everyone was too busy hauling his or her own equipment on board to notice
her struggling with the heavy case.
Once settled in her tiny cabin, complete
with bunk bed, side table and en suit (at least she had a shower), she made her
way to the lecture theatre for Don’s briefing. She looked for Taj but couldn’t
find him. He’d probably heard it all before anyway. She said hello to a couple
of people she recognised from the hotel reception drinks in Santiago, and
listened as Don told them a few things about the ship. Taj had been right, it
was an ex Russian research vessel fully equipped to break through compact ice
sheets and nimble enough to take them into every nook and cranny Antarctica had
to offer. Personally Georgina thought breaking through ice sheets was
terrifying enough, and she had no desire to visit Antarctica’s nooks and
crannies. There were two zodiac landing boats attached, as well as a salvage
crane and life rafts, God forbid they should need them. The dining room served
a buffet breakfast as well as a set lunch and supper. Everybody sighed in
relief when Don mentioned coffee and tea were available all day and night from
the self service stations. She was glad to hear of the small library with its
collection of polar themed books, in case she needed to research anything.
There was also a small clinic, run by a licensed doctor and of course the most
frequented room on the ship, according to Don, the lounge/bar on deck four aft.
Georgina, along with a few others went
up on deck as the research vessel accompanied by the harbour patrol boat got
under way.
She watched awe-struck as the
seemingly uninhabited coastline moved by. The exposed shoreline showed stark
wind damage and every protected valley, by contrast, was filled with robust
evergreens and an abundance of bird life.
“Tonight we cross the Convergence and
officially enter Antarctic waters.” Georgina turned to find the expedition
leader, and Taj’s friend, Don
Mackley
standing behind
her. She gave him a bright smile.
“That’s where the warmer water gives way
to the colder Antarctic waters,” she said, racking her brains to remember what
she’d read.
He grinned. “Correct. You might also be
interested to know that once we cross the Convergence, the temperature drops
about 5 or 6 degrees in the space of around 8 hours.”
“Sounds chilly. I hope the heaters are
working on this trip,” she said lightly.
“Ah, I see Taj has been feeding you
horror stories from our last little expedition. Don’t worry, I checked them all
myself this afternoon before you boarded. Everything’s working perfectly.”
“Glad to hear it,” she smiled at him,
then turned to stare at the coastline again. “I never expected it to be so
barren, or so beautiful.”
He nodded. “Yes, and it only gets more
barren from here on south. You should keep an eye out for the whales. There are
plenty along this straight.”
Georgina got excited. “Really? I’ve
never seen a whale up close and personal before. How exciting!”
Don beamed at her enthusiasm. “You’ll
get an eye full this trip, for sure. Fin and
Minke
Whales, although Fin whales are harder to spot as they’re faster than we are
and they often leave us behind.”
Georgina was amazed. It suddenly occurred
to her how little she actually knew of this wild environment. It was a land of
extremes, or stark contrasts, and intense beauty.
“I suppose this is just the kind of
environment that Taj enjoys photographing,” she said thoughtfully.
“Yeah, Taj has a wild spirit. Anything
extreme or dangerous fascinates him. But I’m sure he’ll tell you all about that
when you start interviewing him.”
Georgina raised an eyebrow. “If I can
get to interview him. I’m sure he’s been avoiding me.”
Don laughed and shook his head. “Doesn’t
surprise me. Can I give you some advice?”
“Sure.”
“Taj doesn’t respond well when he feels
forced to do something, and this interview for your magazine is something his
agent has told him to do.”
Georgina stared at him. “So he doesn’t
want to be interviewed at all?”
Don shook his head, “I’m sure if he had
his way you wouldn’t be here at all. No offence.”
“Great,” Georgina sighed. “So what
should I do? I have to write this cover story. It’s very important to me, to my
career.”
“Perhaps you just need to approach it
from a slightly different angle?” Don suggested.
Georgina’s eye’s widened. “What do you
mean?”
“The best way to get to know Taj, I mean
really know him, not just what he wants to tell you, is to accompany him on his
photo shoots. Stick with him, that way you’ll see how he works, what makes him
tick. You may also get a glimpse of his sparkling personality,” he grinned.
“You mean he actually has one? I was
beginning to wonder,” she asked in mock seriousness, which caused Don to laugh
out loud.
“Seriously though, you think I should
offer to go with him on the shoots?”
Don nodded, “Definitely. It’s the only
way you’ll get to know the man behind the lens.”
Georgina still looked doubtful. “But if
he’s avoiding me now, what’s he going to say to my suggestions to accompany
him?”
Don gave her a wide smile. “I’ll have a
word with him.”
“You’d do that for me?” Georgina was
flattered.
“Yeah, and for him. Taj is his own worst
enemy sometimes.”
“Thanks. I really appreciate it.”
Don winked at her. “Don’t mention it.”
The boat rocked gently as it cruised
through the Beagle Channel, guided by the
harbour
pilot, and
headed towards the Drake Passage.
“So how long have you guys known each
other,” Georgina asked, pulling her ski-jacket more tightly against her.
“A while now. We met in college - UCLA.
Taj enrolled for visual arts and I was studying zoology. He needed a place to
crash during the holidays and I lived nearby.” He shrugged, “The following year
we moved into shared digs together and it was all downhill from there.”
Georgina laughed. “Sounds like fun.”
Don rolled his eyes. “Oh, you have no
idea. I’m surprised we survived the first semester.”
The ship tilted to the side and Georgina
gripped the railing. Don pulled his beanie down against the sudden chill. “It
can get a bit rough around here sometimes. If it’s calm we call it the ‘Drake
Lake’ but tonight it looks like it’s going to be the ‘Drake Rock ‘n Roll’. You
don’t mind a bit of dancing do ya?” At the look on her suddenly pale face he
suggested, “Perhaps we should go inside.”
Georgina nodded. The boat was now
rolling from side to side and she was beginning to feel a bit queasy. “I think
I’ll go to my cabin and settle in. Thanks for the chat.”
Don gave her a knowing grin. “No
problem. Anytime.”
Georgina felt the nausea rising as the
boat rolled again and she quickly made her way back to her cabin. As it was she
ran the last few metres and only just made it to the bathroom in time. An hour
later she was lying flat on her bed, exhausted. The nausea had abated
momentarily, but she knew better than to get up. For the last hour she’d been
wrapped around the toilet bowl and had no wish to repeat the experience. Why
didn’t someone warn her about the seasickness? Then at least she could have
come prepared.
A knock on the door made her sit up.
“Can I come in?” a female voice asked,
and the door handle turned. Georgina realised she’d forgotten to lock it.
A dark head peered around the door. “Hi
there. I’m Amy.” Georgina recognised her from the hotel in Santiago.
“I heard you weren’t feeling too well
and I’ve come to give you these,” she handed Georgina a small vial of pills. “I
don’t leave home without them.”
“Thanks, I’ve never been on a boat
before so I didn’t know what to expect.”
“Don’t worry,” Amy told her kindly. “I
get seasick every time and I’ve been sailing for years.”
“Really?”
Amy nodded. “Yes, but it passes fairly
quickly and these definitely help. Staying above deck also helps. I know its
cold, but you’ll feel better.”
Georgina laid her head back against the
headboard. “On deck?” she repeated weakly. “I don’t know if I can make it.”
“Sure you can. I’ll help you. Let’s just
get one of these down your throat.” Amy busied herself in getting a glass of
water and handed it to Georgina.
She took the pill and with Amy’s help
struggled out of bed and up on deck. Amy was right. She felt better almost
immediately. The fresh sea air revitalised her and after about ten minutes her
stomach settled right down.
“Thank you,” Georgina said gratefully.
“I thought I might have to stay in my cabin for the duration.”
Amy laughed. “No problem.”
The two women chatted for a while and
when Georgina was ready they ventured into the dining room. Dinner was almost
finished, but Amy said she’d already eaten and Georgina had no stomach for food
just yet. She did however want a word with Taj Andrews. She wondered if Don had
had a chance to talk to him yet. She decided to find out.
Taj
was
lounging at a table talking to Amy’s husband Claude. He looked up as Georgina
and Amy approached. “Joining us, ladies?”
“I hope we’re not interrupting,”
Georgina asked casually.
“Not at all,” Claude shifted up to let
his wife sit next to him.
Georgina remembered meeting Claude at
the welcome reception back in Santiago. He’d been introduced to her as Dr.
Flores. He was a prominent marine biologist. He spoke with a very faint French
accent, which Georgina found quite appealing. He was quiet and soft spoken, the
quintessential intellectual, while his wife Amy was more of a social butterfly.
She knew almost everyone on board and had clearly taken Georgina under her
wing.
“You feeling better?” enquired Taj. She
nodded. “Yes, thanks to Amy here and her magic pills.”