Deep Dark Chocolate (18 page)

Full-Tilt Dark Chocolate with Zabaglione

serves
6

HERE’S AN ELEGANT NEW SLANT ON AN OLD-FASHIONED
dessert ingredient: gelatin. I know what you’re thinking: chocolate and gelatin? Believe me, not only does the combination work, but you’ll get lots of compliments on this dessert’s unusual presentation. People won’t be able to figure out how you got the chocolate gelée and zabaglione to slant at such an interesting angle. That won’t keep them from dipping their spoons into the classic Italian custard, along with the brilliant chocolate. One taste and it’s full-tilt ahead.

Chocolate

2½ teaspoons (1 package) unflavored gelatin

1½ cups tepid water, divided

½ cup heavy (whipping) cream

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cup firmly packed dark brown sugar

¼ cup premium unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder

Zabaglione

5 large egg yolks, at room temperature

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cup sweet Marsala

1 cup heavy (whipping) cream, whipped and chilled

TO MAKE THE SLANT:
You will need to find a prop to set 6 narrow, 6-ounce dessert glasses at an angle. (I used small paperback books.) Take 1 glass and fill it with
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cup water. On a baking tray, prop the glass at an angle so that the water comes ¼ to ½ inch from its rim and support the glass at that angle. Then, use small pieces of floral putty (or other nonpermanent putty) to prop the rest of the glasses at the same angle. Empty the water from the first glass and prop it with floral putty as well. Set aside.

TO MAKE THE CHOCOLATE:
In a small saucepan, sprinkle the gelatin over ½ cup of the water and let stand for 1 minute to soften. Cook over low heat, stirring, until the gelatin dissolves, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Meanwhile, in a heavy, 1-quart saucepan, gently whisk the remaining 1 cup water, the cream, brown sugar, and cocoa powder until blended and bring just to a boil. Remove from the heat and stir in the gelatin mixture until combined. Let the mixture cool slightly, then divide the chocolate among the prepared glasses, about
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cup each. You may find a funnel helps to control the chocolate as you pour it into the glasses. (Any leftovers can be poured into a small dish for the cook to sample.) Carefully transfer the pan with the glasses to the refrigerator, and refrigerate until firm.

TO MAKE THE ZABAGLIONE:
It doesn’t take long, and the fresher the better. About 15 minutes before serving, in a double boiler, combine the egg yolks with the sugar. Using a whisk or hand mixer with a whisk attachment, whip the mixture until pale, about 3 minutes. Place over barely simmering water and add the Marsala, whisking continuously until the mixture is thick, foamy, and warm to the touch, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and continue whisking until the zabaglione has cooled slightly.

Fold the slightly cooled zabaglione into the whipped cream. Remove the chilled chocolate from the refrigerator and, holding each glass at a 45-degree angle, slowly fill the empty space with zabaglione, gradually righting the glass as you fill it. Repeat with remaining glasses and serve immediately.

Black and White Soufflé

serves
4

JANE ZWINGER, MY FRIEND AND FELLOW CHOCOLATE
lover, adds an element of surprise to her version of a chocolate soufflé. She pairs a bittersweet chocolate layer with one of sweet white chocolate. The contrast and the taste are outstanding.

2 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided

1
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cups milk, plus more as needed

3 ounces premium white chocolate such as Green & Black’s, Valrhona, Callebaut, or El Rey, finely chopped

2 ounces premium dark chocolate(70%), finely chopped

1 tablespoon premium unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for the dish

4 large eggs, separated, at room temperature

1 large egg white, at room temperature

5 tablespoons superfine sugar(see Note, below)

Powdered sugar for dusting

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Generously butter the inside of a 1½-quart soufflé dish, then coat with 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, including the rim. Chill until ready to use.

In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, heat the 1½ cups milk and the mint sprigs until small bubbles form around the edges of the pan. Remove from the heat, cover, and steep for 30 minutes. Remove the sprigs and squeeze out the excess milk. Strain into a 2-cup measuring cup, adding additional milk as needed to make 1¼ cups total.

Put the white chocolate in a medium bowl. Put the dark chocolate and cocoa in another medium bowl. In a small, heavy saucepan over low heat, melt the 2 tablespoons butter. Blend in the flour and cook, stirring, for 3 to 5 minutes (cooking this long minimizes the “flour” taste). You do not want the flour to brown. Slowly add the mint-infused milk, stirring constantly, until smooth and thickened. Remove from the heat and measure ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sauce. Pour it over the white chocolate. Pour the remaining ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sauce over the dark chocolate. Let both mixtures stand for several minutes, then stir until the chocolates are melted and the mixtures are smooth. Cool to lukewarm. Whisk 2 egg yolks into each bowl of chocolate until blended.

In a stand mixer with the whisk attachment, whisk the egg white until foamy. Gradually add the superfine sugar and whisk until stiff peaks form. Do not overbeat. Scoop out half the egg white and gently fold them into the white chocolate until just incorporated. Repeat with the remaining egg white and the dark chocolate. Scoop out ¼ cup of the dark chocolate mixture and set aside. Spoon the remainder into the bottom of the prepared dish. Then, spoon and gently spread the white chocolate mixture on top. Center the scoop of reserved dark chocolate on top (as the soufflé bakes, the dark chocolate will be incorporated into the top as a design).