Romancing the Roads (4 page)

The accommodations were most pleasant and comfortable, and being in a separate “abode,” the
Carriage House
, added to the many pluses. My room, like the other accommodations, was furnished with antiques of Louisiana French origin. The television was hidden in an armoire, and I noticed a small refrigerator in the room. Nice!

The next morning I walked to the main house, where I met Marjorie Voorhies, a most special hostess, who appeared from the kitchen. We discussed the pending breakfast, which already filled the air with sweet aromas. Breakfast consisted of French toast with Louisiana cane syrup (also served were strawberry and maple syrups) and boudin, which is Acadian sausage (ingredients include pork, rice, and spices). This too can be topped with the cane syrup. There was an apple garnish in the shape of a red rooster and, of course, Louisiana French drip coffee. I enjoyed trying new items, and breakfast was delicious and conversations were scintillating. Marjorie talked about antiquing, and Coerte V. filled in, revealing that he is a semiretired geologist. He was well versed in history, geography, and southern Louisiana’s many ethnic cultures. I just learned that he also guides swamp tours.

FYI:
“Cajun” is the pronunciation of the word “Acadian” when said in French.

The Atchafalaya Experience

337-261-5150

www.theatchafalayaexperience.com

I discovered that the Atchafalaya Experience swamp tour would be led by Kim Voorhies, son of Marjorie and Coerte. I wasn’t quite sure what I was getting into, but I was glad he was the son of, and was himself, retired military. We met at Bois des Chenes, and in the short drive to the boat, I discovered he was extremely knowledgeable about the marshes and swamps, ecosystems, and environment—as well as politics. The Atchafalaya is North America’s largest river swamp. Arriving dockside, we put the boat over and headed out. Everything that you have ever seen on a screen or in pictures about a swamp, you will see in real life as you tour. One should definitely take the swamp tour. I was amazed at the debris that is tossed into the swamp. Kim, I discovered, always stops and picks up the trash. I was not to be left sitting on my duff, and I readily joined in. We accumulated so much. I was flabbergasted and took a picture for proof. I will remember this wonderful swamp tour. You too will see for real what has been featured over and over in print and on the Discovery Channel as well as foreign TV channels. You must call for reservations not only for Bois des Chenes but for the swamp tour.

Prejean’s

3480 NE Evangeline Trwy. (I-49), North Lafayette

337-896-3247

www.prejeans.com

This restaurant is definitely casual, definitely friendly, and definitely Cajun. One notation about the restaurant states that it is a Louisiana legend. The place was fairly crowded, and music from a live band filled the air. The manager took me in tow, seated me, and suggested what I should have for dinner. I reiterated what was becoming my stock dining statement: “I would rather taste a little of a lot than have regular portions.”

Dinner was good, and the chef tiny-portioned my meal. (I use “tiny” loosely.) Cajun cooking is heavy. The samples I had at Prejean’s were no exception. I do not agree with all of the enthusiastic food critiques. The food was good. The friendliness, casualness, and happy atmosphere surpassed my culinary experience, but it could have just been me. Hours: Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, 7 a.m. to 10 or 11 p.m.

Thoughts about Lafayette

I enjoyed
myself. I have a strong feeling that I would have discovered a whole different Lafayette if I had not been there on the Fourth of July, when so much was closed. What comes to mind about Lafayette is the friendliness, the music, the dancing, and all that I enjoyed at Bois de Chenes.

Arkansas

Besides
highway signs, there’s another way to tell that you are in Arkansas—the roads aren’t the best, especially from Memphis to Texarkana. Just be prepared to slow down often. (At least, that is the way I found the road the times I have been driving there.)

The following are some amusing and factual observations as I drove I-40 from the Oklahoma border and into Little Rock. Enjoy!

Alma
, Arkansas, proclaims itself the “Spinach Capital of the World,” but then, so does Crystal City, Texas. Go figure. Alma boasts an eight-foot-tall statue of Popeye. Popeye-brand spinach comes from Alma.

Pig Trail Scenic Byway
(exit 35):
I had to look this one up, since “pig” and “scenic” are not words that one normally sees together. It turns out that this scenic route (which I’ve heard can be spectacular) reminded people of trails created by pigs wandering through the woods. (If you say so!)

Toad Suck Park
at Conway:
Huh? Was this sign for real? I later had to look this one up too. Apparently, theories about the origin of the name range from an early mispronunciation to the fact that the bargemen on the Arkansas River “sucked on booze/moonshine bottles until they swelled up like toads.” That’s just a little extraneous info.

Little Rock

Hotels

Peabody Little Rock

3 Statehouse Plz.

501-906-4000

www.peabodylittlerock.com

Whenever you hear the name Peabody Hotel, you know that you are going to be staying in a most special place augmented with duck quacks. Two other main Peabody hotels are located in Memphis, Tennessee, and Orlando, Florida. The Peabody in Memphis is “wonderfully good” and a delight to visit (see the Tennessee chapter for details). The Peabody Little Rock is a AAA Four Diamond
property situated in the expanding and vibrant
River Market District
(more on this below).

A recent $40 million renovation of the hotel’s 418 rooms didn’t overlook a thing. The main lobby is impressive and always seems abuzz as appropriate piano music plays in the background. The decor is more art deco than traditional, with tall, stately columns sectioning off the large open spaces.

What would a Peabody be without a fountain? What would a Peabody fountain be without ducks? For all its formality, this hotel carries on a tradition begun at the Memphis Peabody, where at precisely 11 a.m., a half dozen or so ducks are escorted by the “duck master” to the lobby fountain, where they are permitted to swim until 5 p.m., when the duck master returns them to their “duck palace.” All this is done with great fanfare. The spectacle is free and open to the public, not just hotel guests. (No comments about duck being on the dinner menu, please. It isn’t.) The dining and drinking options are several: the
Capriccio Grill Italian Steakhouse
,
Mallard’s Bar
, and the
Lobby Bar
.

The owners know how to do things well. The accommodations are attractive, though my room could have used a tiny bit of fine tuning, particularly in the bathroom—not a big deal. Otherwise, the rooms are spacious and comfortable. I do recommend this hotel.

FYI:
When the Peabody Little Rock was known as the Excelsior in the 1980s, it was the setting for the first sexual-harassment suit brought against a sitting president some years later, just before the statute of limitations ran out.

Capital Hotel

111 W. Markham St.

501-374-7474

www.thecapitalhotel.com

The historic Capital Hotel in downtown Little Rock originally opened in 1876. This beautiful property has been totally renovated. You feel grand old-world charm the minute you walk in the front door: stately columns, arches framing the balcony, high ceilings, a mosaic floor, a grand double staircase, and stained glass. There are ninety-four rooms at this refined, well-appointed property; my room was nearly perfect, and that was before the most recent renovations. I am sure it is now awesome.

Dining at
Ashley’s
, the featured restaurant at the Capital, is an experience that you shouldn’t miss. I enjoyed the best
lahvosh
(Armenian cracker bread, now off the menu) as well as other savory delights.

A unique feature of the Capital Hotel is its oversized elevator. One explanation states that it was once meant to transport both horse and rider to the guest’s room. One’s horse was most valuable. A more plausible explanation is that the elevator was designed to accommodate women in their broad hoop skirts. Regardless, the elevator is large enough to accommodate lots of travel bags with or without the horse or hoop skirt. Be sure to visit.

Shopping

River Market

400 President Clinton Ave.

501-375-2552

www.rivermarket.info

The trendy
River Market on the banks of the Arkansas River was once filled with abandoned warehouses and buildings. Restaurants and bars of all varieties have now anchored themselves here, and boutiques and various types of shops sell an eclectic mix of wares. During the summer, there are live concerts to enjoy, and two times a week the area’s farmers offer their produce.

Missouri

I was
warned about construction and possible detours into Kansas City, but I was not told that streets would unexpectedly change names! This is particularly challenging for a stranger. I was lost and really did not want to get out of the car in the area where I suddenly found myself.

Here’s a personal tidbit too good not to include: I had been in Salina, Kansas, and was almost in Kansas City, Missouri. I was to meet with executive chef Jennifer Maloney at the
Kemper Museum
’s
Café Sebastienne
. I thought my driving instructions to the museum were clear, but I could not find the exit I was to take. I was in an area where I was glad it was daylight. I pulled off the highway and thankfully saw three motorcycle policemen in the parking lot of a fast fooder.

I apologized as I interrupted their conversation to tell them of my plight. They all compared notes to deal with my situation, and after considerable banter, it was decided that the police officer named James was going in the direction I wanted to go. With a smile, he said, “Follow me. We’ll get there.” What fun to follow a motorcycle policeman! After arriving at the museum, we began to chat. Officer James Evans, Badge 1946, was most interesting, and when I told him about my project, he seemed genuinely interested. I mentioned to him where I would be staying: the
Southmoreland
. “That’s right there on that block,” he said, pointing in one direction. “But you have to go around that block,” he added, pointing to another block. I found you do a lot of that in Kansas City. We exchanged good-byes, and I promised that if I ever came back, particularly for a signing, I would let him know. He said he would bring the entire force. The invitation will soon be on its way.

Kansas City

If you
casually ask, “What do you know or envision about Kansas City?” (not specifying Missouri or Kansas), the replies will include “It is way out there” and “Aren’t they known for their steaks and barbecue?” Both observations are correct, but there is so much to Kansas City, Missouri, which is correctly nicknamed the “Jewel of the Prairie.” I was so surprised by what I discovered when I first visited this “jewel,” and with each subsequent visit I am more impressed. Kansas City’s attributes are obvious, even to a casual visitor. It is clean, and beauty and friendliness abound. This spirited town is also a jazz mecca.

Driving Diva Factoid:
The corporate headquarters of the greeding card company
Hallmark
is an anchor of the area.

Shopping

Country Club Plaza

4750 Broadway

816-753-0100

www.countryclubplaza.com

This fantastic shopping enclave in the center of town features Spanish architecture, fountains, and attractive landscaping. It has over 150 shops and a myriad of restaurants. Do not be taken aback by the name. It is not a club in the usual sense of the word. People are all there enjoying the area and shopping. There is a lot to see and be tempted by here. An alternative to walking around is taking a horse-drawn carriage ride . . . but then, why not do both? Walk first, then recoup with a carriage ride. Country Club Plaza
is one of the most attractive shopping areas I have seen. It is an absolute delight—even if you only window-shop.

Halls Plaza

211 Nichols Rd.

816-274-3222

www.halls.com

This prestigious store is a museum in itself with lapis floors, Baccarat chandeliers, and ebony-embellished, pear-wood furnishings. Luxury is found throughout. Visit this beauty and enjoy—it won’t be hard to do. There is a parking facility with direct access to the store. Joyce C. Hall, the founder of Hallmark, obviously believed in “unparalleled access to the exceptional.”

Bob Jones Shoes

1914 Grand Blvd.

816-474-4212

www.bobjonesshoes.com

Bob Jones Shoes is a warehouse full of current shoe styles in all price ranges. Be prepared for some “serious essential purchases.”

Act II Inc.

1417 W. Forty-seventh St.

816-531-7572

www.actiiinc.com

This consignment shop for designer clothing is upscale and sensibly priced—especially for those things that just happen to be on sale. Act II’s mega “Stupid Sale” is held twice a year. This trove of treasures was started by Gloria Everhart more than fifty years ago. Thank you! As is printed on the business card, “Clothier to the best dressed men and women in Kansas City.” Another paper reads, “Clothier to the Frugal Woman and Man.”

Webster House: Antiques + Designs + Dining

1644 Wyandotte St.

816-221-4713

www.websterhousekc.com

Webster House has an impressive selection of antiques. I don’t think you will find any bargains, but you might find something you have always wanted. The designs are first rate.

Rainy Day Books

2706 W. Fifty-third St.

913-384-3126

www.rainydaybooks.com

This cozy, upbeat bookstore’s business card reads, “One civilized reader is worth a thousand boneheads.” Vivian Jennings is the founder and president of Rainy Day Books, which is the oldest bookstore in the Kansas City area and considered one of the leading independent booksellers in the country. That’s quite an accolade! The shop’s calendar boasts impressive, very popular author events. I read that Vivian and partner Roger Doeren’s philosophy is “Bigger isn’t better. Better is better.” They believe that books can expand awareness, improve health, make us laugh, touch hearts, and encourage people to live a better life in a better world. Those words are a heavy dogma but something for each author to aim for. Needless to say, Rainy Day Books is definitely a place to check out.

Kaplan’s Fabric Store

430 Ward Pkwy.

816-531-4818

www.kaplansfabrics.com

This store has great fabrics at sensible prices. I purchased half a yard of uniquely patterned cloth that would make a great scarf and wonderful souvenir. I checked and am delighted to know that Kaplan’s is still there. I suggest you visit and get a few yards.

Crown Center

200 E. Twenty-fifth St.

816-545-2121

www.crowncenter.com

In the center of the city, Crown Center has a contemporary design with three levels of shops, restaurants, theaters, and movies all under the umbrella of the world headquarters of Hallmark. From all I have gleaned, a lot of thought was given to this center.

Restaurants

Plaza III: The Steakhouse

4749 Pennsylvania Ave.

816-753-0000

www.plazaiiisteakhouse.com

So delicious! Fully describing Plaza III and my dining experience would take too many adjectives, and then you would not believe me, thinking that my arm had been twisted for this review. Not so! First of all, if you decide to go, be sure to make a reservation and be hungry when you arrive. Tasting one of this establishment’s steaks will let you know what a steak should taste like and why Plaza III is considered one of the top ten steak houses in America. The waitress was most knowledgeable with recommendations. The baked potato was large enough for three, maybe four people. The side of steamed fresh asparagus was also huge, so one order will do. Enjoy! It’s not hard to do.

For
Café Sebastienne
at the Kemper Museum and the
Raphael Restaurant
, see below.

Hotels

Raphael Hotel

325 Ward Pkwy.

816-756-3800

www.raphaelkc.com

Privately owned and managed, this property has definite old-world charm. The original owners sold this historic property to the Walker family. The Walkers respect historic properties like the Raphael and are committed to preserving while upgrading the property. I learned from the general manager, Carol Chandler, that a lot has been done, and upgrades are continual, but the historical elements are always retained.

Originally built as an apartment building in 1927, the Raphael was then renovated and opened as a hotel in 1975. When I first stayed on property, the “originals” were evident. The halls were long and narrow, and the moldings impressive. The decor was dark, and the bathroom was not glitzy—but then, nothing was. I certainly didn’t mind the chain tub stopper because I knew it worked. The faucet handles were hard to turn, but at least they were clearly marked. The bathroom floor tiles were the tiny handset ones. I like these as they remind me of my bathroom when I was growing up. The monogrammed
R
towels were great and remain. The bed was comfortable, and everything was clean. The Raphael was female friendly, and I felt very safe.

The new owners have spent millions in renovations, and my tiny bathroom tiles, I am sure, are a thing of the past. This charming boutique hotel has given a lot of thought to every detail.

Chaz on the Plaza
, located in the Raphael, is
the
place. From all I have gleaned, the menu is delicious, the people delightful, and the ambiance exceptional. The summer Strings on the Green features string ensembles presenting all types of great music. The
Chaz Lounge
has a Happy Hour, which I am sure should not be missed.

There are many special packages. The “Girlfriends Getaway” includes one night in a suite with a spacious parlor, two bedrooms, and two bathrooms. For four girls, the cost is about $456
per night. The getaway includes chick flicks, popcorn, margaritas, M&M’s, disposable cameras, a continental breakfast, shopping discounts, valet parking, and a few more things, such as massages and chauffeur services.

Billed as “Kansas City’s Elegant ‘Little’ Hotel,” the Raphael is definitely a delightful destination and has been called “One of the World’s Best Places to Stay” by
Condé Nast Traveler.
The Raphael will remain a gem—just now a polished updated one.

InterContinental

401 Ward Pkwy.

816-756-1500

www.intercontinental.com

When I was here, it was called the Fairmont, but it was originally named the Alameda Plaza when it opened in 1972. This edifice has been an outstanding commercial property. On my visit, it was not overly cozy, though definitely welcoming. There was appropriate valet parking, and my accommodations were pleasant. During my stay, I noted that “better signage” in halls and throughout the property was needed, and I hear that this has been implemented.

My room was large, clean, and comfortable but bland. There was no clock, but when I informed the staff, one was quickly delivered. The bedspread did not fit the bed well. My room had a delightful porch with a beautiful view, which compensated for a flaw or two. The standard safe, iron, and ironing board were in the closet. The TV was in a lower-than-usual cabinet but seeable, thus bearable. The bathroom was well done but standard. It included such upscale amenities as a magnifying mirror, deluxe towels, and a bathroom phone.

My comments here may be a little outdated since I know the entire hotel was recently upgraded and megamillions were spent. I have been told that it is definitely a sparkling property. The new general manger receives rave reviews.

I was also told that the
Club Lounge
on the
Concierge Floor
remains unchanged. It is extremely well appointed and well run. The host greeted me nicely and introduced himself. Immediately, I knew that breakfast was going to be a nice experience, and as I was to discover, it was also delicious. Silver serving dishes shone brightly. The variety of fruits was excellent, and the orange juice was fresh. There was an attractive display of various dry cereals as well as steaming oatmeal. The coffee was delicious. Tea and other beverages were also available. The bow-front sideboard was attractive, as were all the furnishings. The fresh flowers were beautiful.

Southmoreland on the Plaza: An Urban Inn

116 E. Forty-sixth St.

816-531-7979

www.southmoreland.com

Check-in at Southmoreland consisted of saying, “I am here.” Since my room was not ready, I went to revisit this special city. Although the Southmoreland is within walking distance of the Country Club Plaza, I drove to save my energies for walking around the plaza and its environs.

It was a nice revisit. Kansas City had not changed from when I was last there. It was still thriving with friendly people; everything was clean, and the streets remained well organized. Once again, I found my way back to
Act II
(see above), and as luck would have it, the shop’s big sale was going full tilt. I also revisited
Halls Plaza
to see that it was still luxuriously glamorous.

Once I was able to check in, I realized that this attractive inn/bed-and-breakfast had thought of everything. Parking is in the back by the beautiful garden. I immediately felt at home with the cordial and upbeat greeting I received. I was told of the options: Wine and cheese is served from 4:30 to 6 p.m. Homemade cookies are served at nighttime. The breakfast format and general history of the Southmoreland was also included in the “Welcome to Southmoreland” information. I was shown to my room, which was most attractive. The twelve guest rooms are individually named. There is a luxury suite in the
Carriage House
behind the main house. The surroundings were most appealing.
Everything
was attractive and well considered.

My small, but “just right” room had a wonderful porch to enjoy. Sherry was available in the room; there was no TV, but one could be had on request. In the drawer, there was a “sound machine” if needed to camouflage unwanted noise.

FYI:
A sound machine makes a low humming sound to block out peripheral noises. Some have a mix of sounds, like the rain, the ocean, and the like. The noises of downtown Kansas City are not loud. As a New Yorker, I thought the city was quiet. I enjoyed sitting on the porch in the glider and writing my travel notes.

The bathroom was suitable to the room, but the tub with shower was deep and could have used a safety bar.

I spent a restful, quiet night, and the sound machine remained in the drawer. Before I knew it, I was downstairs on the porch, eating breakfast, and chatting with the other guests.