Authors: Tony Park
Tom opened another beer and thought about the road ahead of him.
Africa continued to reveal herself to him, at her own languid, alluring pace.
He packed in the pre-dawn cool and left for the Pafuri Gate in the far north. He stopped on the
bridge over the Luvuvhu River to take in the view. Below him, browsing in some bushes on the bank of the fast-flowing river, were some antelope he hadn’t so far encountered. The map book Sannie had given him had pictures of animals as well. The chocolate brown creature with fine white stripes and dots and a long shaggy beardlike mane was a nyala. If the animal knew he was there, it ignored him. He envied its peaceful, simple existence. It still had to beware of lurking predators, though. In Africa, death could be as close as the next tree. He got back in the Land Rover and drove off.
Tom left behind the increasingly empty and restful national park, and was thrust back into the conflicts of modern-day Africa as he drove through the lands of the Venda people. Here, traditional reed and mud huts with bright geometric designs painted on the walls and pointed roofs stood side by side with new, utilitarian brick houses, funded by government construction programs. It looked to Tom as though the authorities were trying to skip the twentieth century altogether, to catapult people whose living standards had not changed much since the nineteenth into the twenty-first century. There was still a long way to go, from what he could see.
The Land Rover’s windscreen wipers worked overtime, trying to give him enough visibility to see through a sudden downpour, which drummed hard and loud on the vehicle’s aluminium roof. A trickle of water ran down the inside of the windscreen and door pillar, behind the dashboard, down the accelerator and over his sandalled foot. Some things were
common to Land Rovers around the world, no matter the model or age.
He stopped in the hot, sticky border town of Musina, where the sun broke through the clouds and sucked the moisture back into the heavens, to top up on food and fuel, and headed west for another ninety-odd kilometres. There he drove across the dry bed of the Limpopo River, which marked the border between South Africa and Botswana at an out-of-the-way crossing called Pont Drift.
It would have been quicker for him to reach his destination by driving through Zimbabwe, but Sannie had warned him that the country’s perennial fuel shortages were a problem. Botswana, he soon discovered, consisted of miles and miles of empty countryside. He crossed more sandy riverbeds and skirted a herd of skittish elephants while driving through the Mashatu Game Reserve, where the land had been picked clean of vegetation and resembled, in places, the surface of a hot, dusty, red moon.
Once back on the tar road he made good time, heading ever north. The monotony of the black ribbon flanked by thick thorny bush would have put him to sleep if it weren’t for the deep rumble of the diesel and the heat of the engine pulsing through the fire-wall. Slowing only for towns, most of which seemed to be guarded by a police car and a radar speed trap, he kept the Land Rover above a hundred kilometres an hour for most of the rest of the day.
Hot and tired, he followed the signs to the Marang Hotel in the bustling regional city of Francistown. It was another of Sannie’s recommendations. She and
Christo had stopped there on their honeymoon, on their way to the Okavango Delta. It was strange to think of her with another man, now that he knew every inch of her slim, golden body. Past the hotel itself and its shaded green lawns and swimming pool was a dusty camp ground. He said a polite good evening to an elderly South African couple in a Land Cruiser, but avoided a conversation by heading to the pool. The cold water sluiced the grit from his skin, and he ordered a beer from the poolside bar’s waiter while he lay on a canvas-covered sun bed and let the fast-closing gloom cool his body.
The next day was more of the same, the monotony of the empty bush broken only by the sight of two elephants. The first was dead, its carcass swarming with the giant flapping wings and pecking hooked beaks of vultures. He dropped his speed to eighty and a gust of wind brought the unmistakable stench of death into the cab. The second animal gave him a fright when it charged across the road in front of him. He braked hard, missing it by a couple of metres, and tried not to think about the damage he would have caused to the truck and himself if he’d hit it. Sannie had advised him not to drive at night, and he could now see why. With not a streetlight for hundreds of kilometres, and the thorn-studded trees growing thick right up to the sides of the road, a collision with an animal would spell disaster.
He stopped to refuel in the middle-of-nowhere outpost of Nata, a crossroads settlement where one route ran north, towards Zambia, and another took travellers west, to the lush inland paradise of the Okavango
Delta. Nata itself, however, was a strain on the eyes. The rains were hard-pressed reaching here, and a cloud of glary white dust hovered over two filling stations, a cheap hotel, a post office, a general store, a shebeen and a butcher’s shop. A small man with the fine, almost oriental features, of the San – once known as the Bushmen – came up to Tom while a chatty attendant filled his tank with diesel, and asked for money, cigarettes and beer. The whites of the San’s eyes were a rheumy yellow and he smelled of booze. Tom shook his head, both at the man and the effects of so-called civilisation on an ancient people.
It was hot. It was dry. He found himself drinking water by the litre. When he went to the bathroom at the service station he noticed the skin of his right arm and the right side of his face – the parts of him most exposed while driving – were brick red. He put on extra sunscreen when he got back in the truck, but it seemed little could protect him against the elements. He ran a hand through his damp hair and felt grit. The distances he was travelling staggered him when he overlaid them on England, Scotland and Wales. Sannie had warned him he would see ‘MMBA – miles and miles of bloody Africa’, and she was right.
The humidity climbed as he neared the Zambian border. Here the land started to dip into the Zambezi River valley. He crossed the frontier on a ferry at Kazungula, and a rare breeze off the water cooled him momentarily as he leaned on a safety railing and watched a pied kingfisher hover above the surface before plunging in for the kill. The bird emerged and flew off, its beak empty. Would his hunting trip be equally fruitless?
He reckoned there was a fifty-fifty chance that the theory coalescing in his mind was right. He wouldn’t know for sure until he made it to Malawi, and there was still another whole country to cross first.
Zambia was poorer, edgier and more run-down than the pleasantly prosperous backwater of Botswana or busy, flashy, manic-depressive South Africa. Here and there were signs of development, either through foreign aid or an influx of tourist dollars, but elsewhere the country had the feel of an old elephant down on its knees, struggling to stand upright again. On the Land Rover’s radio was news in English about Zambia’s recent election. The opposition had been defeated and was claiming corruption on the government’s part. A spokesman warned of protests on the street and the announcer mentioned an increased police presence was planned to counter the demonstrations. Tom got the feeling that democracy was still more of an ideal than a reality in many parts of Africa.
On the way into Livingstone, the closest town on the Zambian side of the mighty Victoria Falls, he passed signs to a new five-star hotel and a shopping centre complex under construction, but in the town itself he watched a security guard beat a street urchin with a wooden baton. The boy, dressed in ragged shorts and a too-big T-shirt, ran off, blood running through the fingers pressed to his scalp.
Tom had no time or inclination to visit the Victoria Falls, though in his mind he briefly played out a scene in which he and Sannie and her kids returned to go sightseeing. On the road out of Livingstone he watched a pair of young boys riding towards him in
a cart constructed from the rear tray of an old pickup, pulled by a pair of battered, scarred donkeys. They whipped the animals in a cruel frenzy to get out of the way of a shiny new Mercedes-Benz which roared past them and swerved to avoid a head-on with Tom at the last second. Tom leaned on the Land Rover’s horn, but the gesture was wasted. The Merc had probably been travelling at close to two hundred, he thought. This stretch of road was good, courtesy of the Danish government, according to a road sign, but half an hour later Tom was dodging potholes as deep as his forearm.
It seemed the roads in Zambia were as much a footpath as a vehicular route. As he drove he passed a constant procession of people walking to or from school or work, or from one poverty-afflicted village to another. A young man with legs and arms like twigs and dressed in a hessian sack, a look of madness in his eyes, was followed by a man in a suit and tie, riding a pushbike. Women in brightly printed wraps with babies on their backs walked on the roadside, ignoring him and other traffic, carrying themselves with the aloofness and grace of giraffes, while children in starched uniforms yelled and waved frantically as the Land Rover rumbled past them.
Tom lost count of the number of police checkpoints he passed through. Sannie had warned him that, apart from border crossings, these would be his biggest inconvenience. She was right, and he tried to remember to be patient and friendly. He stopped for the night in a camping ground situated on a farm near a small town called Choma, on the Livingstone
to Lusaka road. As he was the only camper, he used the opportunity to take Sannie’s nine-millimetre from the toolbox and strip it and clean it.
Tom rose at four-fifteen and pulled on nylon running shorts, a T-shirt and his trainers. He figured it was safe to leave the vehicle where it was, so he did twenty minutes of stretching, then set off for a run. He followed the dirt track, which led from the farm to the main road, keeping a careful eye on the uneven ground. He didn’t want to twist an ankle. Once on the main tar road he settled into a rhythm, breathing deep and slow. At this hour there were few cars and for long stretches it seemed like he was the only person in Africa. The sun peaked above the flat horizon after about half an hour, turning the open grasslands on either side of him the colour of molten gold. He checked his watch, turned and headed back. A gaggle of children in pressed maroon and white uniforms, presumably from families employed on the commercial farm, giggled and pointed at him as he passed. He waved and smiled. It felt good to be exercising again. In the coming days he needed to be sharper than he ever had in his career – both mentally and physically. Back at his campsite he finished off with fifty push-ups and a hundred sit-ups. In the shower he enjoyed the feel of the strong spray pummelling his invigorated muscles. When he dried himself he caught sight of his face in the mirror. He nodded and said out loud, ‘Ready.’
Immigration officer Goodenough Khumalo put a hand over his mouth to stifle a yawn and said, ‘Next.’
The man at the head of the non-residents’ queue was tall and white, with jet black hair and a moustache. Goodenough watched him as he walked, noting his smile and the way he looked him in the eye. Nothing to hide? We’ll see, thought Goodenough. The ones to pay close attention to, he had learned, were those who fidgeted nervously and looked every which way and those who seemed too full of confidence. Behind the man were at least another forty or so people from the South African Airways flight from London. Good-enough was in no particular hurry – he had nowhere else to go.
‘Good morning, how are you?’ the man said as he stepped up to the high counter. He wore a blue cotton shirt, navy blazer and tan trousers.
‘Fine, and you?’ Goodenough said, taking the British passport and sliding it towards himself.
He looked at the photo and glanced up at the man. A match. He even had the same moustache. Goode-nough checked the issue date. The passport was only a month old. He flicked through the pages. The man had been to South Africa once already since the new document was issued, only a few weeks ago. He used his barcode scanner and the man’s details flashed up on the screen in front of him. The green sticker in the passport was a three-month visa. It was still well in date, so the holder could pass in and out of South Africa as often as he or she wished during that period. Each time, the sticker would be scanned and the entry/exit date electronically registered on a computer.
‘Mr Daniel Carney, your visa is still valid.’
‘Yes,’ the man said, smiling.
‘How long do you stay in South Africa this time?’
‘Just three days.’
Goodenough looked at the white immigration arrival form which Carney had completed. ‘I see you are a freelance journalist. Are you here on business or pleasure?’
‘Mostly pleasure. In fact, I’m in transit. Though I might write a story on your country’s preparations for the soccer World Cup. I think it’s fantastic that Africa’s finally getting to host it, don’t you?’
Goodenough thought the man was trying to distract him. He nodded, and tapped the keyboard in front of him. He was actually doing nothing, but he wanted the man to think he was further checking him out. He glanced over at Mr Daniel Carney, who simply smiled again.
‘Where are you going to after South Africa?’
‘Mozambique.’
‘Do you have your onward air ticket?’
‘Um, no. I’ll be driving a rental car.’
Goodenough looked up and, for the first time, thought he saw a crack in the man’s facade. Carney scratched the back of his head. Most people experienced a degree of nervousness, no matter how mild, when dealing with people in authority. This he knew well. He’d had to deal with hysterical women, angry men, and crying children in his time. However, there was no reason for him to detain this man, even though his gut instinct told him that there was something not quite right about him.
He stamped the man’s passport and slid it back across the counter. ‘Enjoy your short stay in South Africa.’
‘Oh, I’m sure I will.’
Sannie arrived at the headquarters of the South African Police Service Protection and Security Services at 218 Visagie Street, Pretoria, at seven-fifty in the morning and took the lift to her floor.