The Amazing World of Rice (25 page)

Use rice in any configuration you choose; try 1 cup each of brown, wild, and long-grain white as suggested here, or substitute Wehani, basmati, Italian medium-grain, or other rices. Select mild melting cheeses like mozzarella, Italian Fontina, or Gruyère. This is one of those dishes that improves upon standing, a fact that I rediscover each time there are leftovers. The recipe easily can be doubled if you want to serve a crowd or purposely create a generous amount of leftovers.

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

5 ounces shiitakes, stems discarded, caps wiped clean and coarsely chopped (about 2 cups)

5 ounces cremini mushrooms, trimmed and coarsely chopped (about 2 cups)

5 ounces white button mushrooms, trimmed and coarsely chopped (about 2 cups)

½ cup chopped onion

1 garlic clove, minced

¼ cup finely chopped Italian parsley

1 teaspoon thyme leaves, optional

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup cooked short-grain brown rice

1 cup cooked wild rice

1 cup cooked long-grain white rice

1 cup coarsely shredded mozzarella (about 4 ounces)

1 cup coarsely shredded Italian Fontina, Gruyère, or Jarlsberg (about 4 ounces)

½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

2 cups whole milk

• 1.
  Preheat the oven to 350°F. Generously butter an 11 × 7-inch or other shallow (1½-to 2-quart) rectangular baking dish.
  
• 2.
  Heat the oil in a large skillet. Add the mushrooms and onion; cook, stirring, over medium-high heat until the mushrooms are browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in the garlic; cook for 1 minute. Add the parsley, thyme, and salt and pepper to taste. Add the rice, mozzarella, Fontina, and ¼ cup of the Parmigiano-Reggiano; stir to blend.
  
• 3.
  Spoon into the prepared baking dish and smooth the top. Pour the milk over the top. Sprinkle with the remaining ¼ cup Parmigiano-Reggiano.
  
• 4.
  Bake until the top is well browned and the cheese is bubbly, about 45 minutes. Let stand for at least 20 minutes to allow the pudding to firm up and set before serving. Serve warm or at room temperature. (This tastes even better when prepared a day ahead and reheated, covered with foil, in a 350°F oven for 15 minutes.)
  

This rice and vegetable pudding, like a quiche without the crust, is delicious served with baked ham or smoked meats.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus butter for the baking dish

2 tablespoons fine dry bread crumbs

½ cup diced (¼-inch) carrots

½ cup thinly sliced (¼-inch) green beans

½ cup thinly sliced (¼-inch) asparagus

½ cup frozen petite peas, thawed

1 cup finely chopped leek (white and pale green parts)

1½ to 2 cups cooked medium-grain white rice

2 tablespoons minced dill

2 tablespoons minced mint

One 5-ounce package fresh goat cheese, very cold, cut into small pieces

2 large eggs

2 egg yolks

2 cups whole milk

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

• 1.
  Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly butter an 8-inch square or 11 × 7-inch baking dish. Sprinkle with the bread crumbs. Place in a 13 × 9-inch baking dish. Set a kettle of water on to heat.
  
• 2.
  Heat a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Add the carrots and green beans; cook for 2 minutes. Add the asparagus and peas; cook for 2 minutes longer. Immediately drain and rinse with cold water. Turn out onto a kitchen towel and blot dry.
  
• 3.
  Melt the 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet. Add the leek; cook, stirring, over low heat until soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in the carrots, green beans, asparagus, and peas. Stir in the rice, dill, and mint. Transfer to the prepared baking dish; spread in even layer. Top with the goat cheese.
  
• 4.
  Whisk the eggs and yolks in a bowl. Whisk in the milk, lemon zest, salt, and pepper to taste. Pour evenly over the rice and vegetables. Sprinkle the top with the grated cheese.
  
• 5.
  Place on the center oven rack. Add enough very hot water to the pan to come halfway up the sides of the baking dish. Bake until the custard is set, about 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and let the custard cool in the hot-water bath. Cut into squares or spoon out to serve.
  

INDIVIDUAL CUSTARDS.
Lightly butter eight 10-to 12-ounce custard cups. Fill each cup half-full with the rice mixture. Divide the milk and egg mixture evenly among the cups. Reduce the amount of goat cheese to 3 ounces; sprinkle the crumbled cheese evenly on top of the custards. Bake in a water bath as described above until the custards are set; 25 to 30 minutes. Cool in the water bath. To turn out, run the blade of a small knife around the edges and invert the custards onto serving plates or one large platter. Makes 8 servings.

I've never met a rice pudding I didn't like, but this one is one of my all-time favorites. The basic mixture of cooked rice, milk, and sugar can become the basis for many flavor combinations. In summer, I fold whipped cream into the rice and then gently fold sweetened berries into the mixture. In winter, I stew dried fruits and fold them into the rice and cream. Or use any of the imported spoon fruits or sauces now on the market.

1 cup uncooked medium-or long-grain white rice

2 teaspoons kosher salt

3 cups whole milk

¾ cup sugar

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 cup heavy cream, optional

Ground cinnamon

• 1.
  Combine the rice, 8 cups water, and salt in a large wide saucepan; heat to a boil, stirring frequently so the rice doesn't stick. Simmer, uncovered, until the grains are split and very soft, about 20 minutes; drain. Rinse out the pan.
  
• 2.
  Combine the cooked rice, milk, and sugar in the pan. Cook, stirring frequently, over medium-low heat until the mixture is creamy, about 20 minutes. Stir in the vanilla. Let cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
  
• 3.
  Serve plain, or whip the cream until stiff peaks form; fold into the rice. Spoon into dessert dishes and sprinkle lightly with cinnamon.
  

RICE PUDDING WITH SWEETENED BERRIES.
Combine 2 cups berries (cut-up strawberries mixed with raspberries and blueberries, or any combination) with 2 tablespoons sugar in a bowl; stir to blend. Let stand until juicy. Fold into the plain rice pudding or the version lightened with whipped cream.

 

RICE PUDDING WITH STEWED DRIED APRICOTS.
Flavor the rice pudding with ¼ teaspoon almond extract in addition to the vanilla. Combine 8 ounces dried apricots, 1½ cups water, and a cinnamon stick in a small saucepan. Heat to a
simmer; cover and cook, stirring occasionally, over low heat for 15 minutes, or until the apricots are very soft and most of the liquid is absorbed. Let cool slightly. Remove the cinnamon stick. Stir the apricots to break them up into loose, rough pieces. Let cool. Fold the apricot compote into the plain rice pudding or the version lightened with whipped cream.

This is my grandmother's recipe. Tender custard envelops each plump grain of rice. Use leftover cooked rice: 1½ cups cooked white rice yields a high custard-to-rice ratio; 3 cups cooked rice makes a stiffer but still creamy pudding; or adjust the amount between the two.

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature

1½ to 3 cups cooked long-grain white rice (see headnote)

½ cup dark or golden raisins, optional

6 cups whole milk

1 vanilla bean or 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

6 large eggs, at room temperature

1 cup sugar

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest

Freshly grated nutmeg

• 1.
  Preheat the oven to 325°F. Generously butter a 13 × 9-inch baking dish with the butter. Set it in a larger baking pan. Set a kettle of water on to heat.
  
• 2.
  Spread the rice and raisins, if using, in the buttered baking dish. Pour the milk into a large saucepan; add the vanilla bean, if using. Heat the milk until small bubbles appear around the edges. Remove from the heat. If you used the vanilla bean, let steep, covered, for 10 minutes.
  
• 3.
  Beat the eggs and sugar in a large bowl until foamy. If using the vanilla bean, remove it from the scalded milk; carefully split the bean and scrape the soft center into the milk. Discard the pod. Gradually whisk the milk into the beaten eggs until blended. Add the lemon zest and the vanilla extract, if using.
  
• 4.
  Pour half the custard mixture over the raisins and rice in the baking dish; stir to distribute evenly. Place the larger baking pan on the center oven rack; pour remaining custard mixture into baking dish. Sprinkle the top evenly with nutmeg.
  
• 5.
  Carefully pour enough very hot water into the larger baking pan to come halfway up the sides of the baking dish. Bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until the custard is almost set and the edges are golden. Let the pudding cool in the water bath. Serve at room temperature or chilled, cut into squares.
  

Turn Leftover Rice into Pudding

I get great satisfaction when I take a few cups of rice left over from a previous meal and with little effort and just a few extra-special ingredients turn it into a rather elegant dessert. The following three variations on the theme are each made with 2 cups leftover cooked rice. Use basmati, long-grain white, Arborio, or any medium-grain white rice. Then use the three variations as a springboard for further variations: Try raisins in place of the dried cherries or crystallized ginger, ground cinnamon instead of the cinnamon stick, grated lemon zest instead of the crystallized ginger. The egg and heavy cream mixture used in the dried cherry rice pudding and the chocolate rice pudding could also be added to the ginger rice pudding. Or, for a less rich version, they can be omitted from any of the puddings.

Crystallized-Ginger Rice Pudding

2 cups whole milk, plus more if needed

2 cups leftover cooked rice, preferably basmati

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/
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cup chopped crystallized ginger or baker's-cut crystallized ginger chips

3 tablespoons sugar

½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract

½ cup (approximately) heavy cream, optional

• 1.
  Combine the milk and rice in a medium saucepan; heat, stirring, over medium-low heat until boiling. Stir in the ginger and sugar. Cook, stirring often, until thickened, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla extract.
  
• 2.
  Serve warm or at room temperature. Add more milk or heavy cream as needed to thin the pudding, which will thicken as it stands.
  

2 cups whole milk, plus more if needed

2 cups leftover cooked rice

1 cinnamon stick

¹
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cup sugar

¹
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cup dried sour cherries

½ cup heavy cream, plus more if needed

1 large egg

½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract

• 1.
  Combine the milk, rice, and cinnamon stick in a medium saucepan; heat to a boil. Stir in the sugar and dried cherries. Cook, stirring often, until thickened, 15 to 20 minutes.
  
• 2.
  In a small bowl, whisk the cream and egg until blended. Add a spoonful of the hot pudding to temper the egg, stirring to blend. Pour the egg mixture into the pudding and cook, stirring, until the pudding boils. Remove from the heat. Stir in the vanilla.
  
• 3.
  Serve warm or at room temperature. Add more milk or heavy cream, as needed, to thin the pudding, which will thicken as it stands.
  

Two all-time favorites, chocolate and rice pudding, in one dish.

2 cups whole milk, or more if needed

2 cups leftover cooked rice

¼ cup sugar

4 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped

½ cup heavy cream, plus more if needed

1 large egg

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

• 1.
  Combine the milk, rice, and sugar in a saucepan; heat, stirring, over medium heat until the mixture boils. Boil gently over medium to medium-low heat, stirring often, until thickened, 15 to 20 minutes. Stir in the chocolate until melted.
  
• 2.
  In a small bowl, whisk the cream and egg until blended. Stir a little of the hot rice into the cream mixture to temper the egg. Stir the egg mixture into the rice and cook, stirring, until the pudding boils. Remove from the heat; stir in the vanilla.
  
• 3.
  Serve warm, with heavy cream, or serve cold. Add more cream or milk as needed to thin the pudding, which will thicken as it stands.